Preparation for Starting a Lawn
Planting a new lawn is a big job. You may want to tackle this in sections. Being by redoing the worst or most visible lawn areas; then make plans to tackle other areas the following year. This keeps the job manageable and makes the critical step of watering more feasible for homeowners who do not have in-ground sprinkler systems. You will need to take the following steps no matter which grass-planting method you choose.

1. Remove the Old Turf
There are several ways to kill and remove your poor-quality existing turf. For areas where you don't mind a little temporary unsightliness, solarization or heavy mulching are two methods to consider. Solarization bakes grass and weeds to death under a layer of clear plastic that's anchored over the lawn. You'll need two months to achieve the desired effect, provided you install the plastic when the weather is warm. Don't attempt solarization in shady areas or if your summer nights are cool. Smothering ragged turf with heavy mulches, such as old carpeting, 6 inches of wood chips, or several layers of newspaper covered by 3 inches of wood chips will have the same effect.

Although not a method we recommend, you may choose to use an herbicide to kill unwanted grass and weeds to the roots. Select an herbicide that degrades quickly (that does not last long in the environment), such as glysophate (Roundup). Mix according to the manufacturer's directions, and completely cover all grass plants and weeds with the solution. Work on a windless day when the temperature is above 60 degrees F, and take care not to overspray on garden plants. Glysophate is a potent, nonselective herbicide that will kill or severely injure all foliage it touches. Wear clothing that covers your skin completely, as well as eye protection, when applying this or any other herbicide. Afterwards, take a shower and wash clothing separately.

You may find that it takes several applications of glyphosate to get the job done. If the turf has not completely died after 4 weeks, reapply the herbicide and wait 7 days after the last application before tilling the dead turf into your soil. Take care to follow the manufacturer's safety precautions.

Mechanical (manual or power) removal of undesirable turf is the fastest way to get the job done without needing to worry about kids or pets contracting herbicides or tracking them into your house. For small lawns, a grape (grubbing) hoe is a terrific tool for removing turf. Anyone with a strong back and a helper to cart away the old turf pieces can remove up to 300 square feet in an hour. For large lawns, consider renting a sod cutter. It slices under the grass, enabling you to pull up strips of old turf. Make the job easier by cutting sod while the lawn is moist. Follow up with tilling to alleviate compaction and to prepare the soil for the amendments you'll mix in later. Another method of turf removal, turning existing turf into the soil with a tiller or cultivator, is not recommended. Only the most heavy-duty tillers are suited for "busting sod." And raking out the pieces of turf after they've been turned under is frustratingly difficult.

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2. Fix Grade Problems
Before adding amendments to the soil, fix any existing grade problems. Although grading often requires help from a landscaping contractor with heavy equipment, minor problems can be fixed by the ambitious do-it-yourselfer. Small versions of earth-moving equipment are often available for rent.

The first rule of grading is that the ground should slope away from your house in all directions so that it drops at least 2 or 3 inches for every ten feet. The finished grade should also end up matching the level of existing fixtures, such as permanent walks and patios, as well as areas of lawn that are not being replanted. This takes some figuring. If you will be replanting with seed and adding one inch of amendments, grade so that the level is one inch lower than fixtures. If you will be replanting with sod and adding an inch of amendments, the grade should be about two inches lower than your fixtures. Your goal is to have the finished grade--after the sod has been planted and amendments added--even with the level of your fixtures.

The proper way to regrade is first to remove the topsoil from the problem area. Make adjustments to the subsoil by scraping away high areas and filling in low areas. Then spread two inches of the reserved topsoil over the subsoil, and till it into the first two inches of subsoil. This will help prevent drainage problems between the two layers of soil. Lastly, spread the rest of your topsoil, which should make up at least another 4 inches. If you need to add topsoil, buy a loam that's free of debris, such as roots or stones. It should also be free of weed seeds and pesticides. A landscaping rake is the best tool for working topsoil to the proper grade if you're doing it yourself.

The maximum slope in a lawn should be 12 inches for every 4 feet. If the drop is greater than 12 inches, you should plan to build a low retaining wall or cover the slope with a hardy ground cover or ornamental grass.

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3. Amend the Soil
Don't put away or return the tiller yet. Now is your chance to add amendments such as fertilizer, organic matter, and lime or sulfur. The opportunity probably won't come again, so don't skimp. The right way to proceed is to add recommended amendments according to the results of your soil test. To have your soil tested, send your samples to the local Cooperative Extension Service or a commercial soil testing lab. The typical recommendations for every 1,000 square feet of new lawn include about two pounds of actual (elemental) phosphorus and potassium; 50 to 100 pounds of lime (in areas with acidic soil), and 3 - 6 cubic yards of organic matter (such as compost or peat moss) per 1,000 square feet. Recommendations will vary depending on your soil's nutrient, organic matter, and pH levels and on your soil type. To be sure, consult with your Cooperative Extension Service.

Ensure even application of amendments by dividing the recommended amounts in half and applying half while walking in one direction and the other half while walking in a perpendicular direction. Once you have applied the amendments, till them into the top 6 inches of soil.

If an overabundance of weeds was one of your reasons for redoing this section of lawn, allow the many weed seeds in the turned soil to sprout. If you rake through or till under the weed seedlings, you can eliminate most annual weeds.

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4. Rake Smooth and Firm
Rake the area to be replanted until it's smooth. Remove any stones and vegetative matter brought to the surface during tilling. Once you're satisfied, water the ground and check for puddles. When the soil is dry enough to be worked, move soil from high spots to fill the depressions.

Whether you're planting seed, sprigs, plugs, or sod, it's helpful to roll the prepared soil to provide a firmer base on which to work and to foster adequate soil structure. For example, seed planted in soil that is too loose generally ends up being planted too deeply. The tiny plants may die before they reach the surface. Fill a lawn roller about 1/3 full of water for this job, and roll the soil until your footprints are no deeper than 1/2 inch. Complete planting preparations by watering the area thoroughly two days before planting. Check to be sure the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 5 or 6 inches.

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